WeChat ID
aaronpk_tv
#3dprint
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Guaranteed fix for your Prusa Mini's extrusion issues : prusa3d (www.reddit.com)"Basically, it means heat creeps up from the melt zone to parts that should really be cold. This heat transfer is mostly through the heat break. But why is it a problem if plastic gets hot here? Let's say we are printing some PLA filament, at 215c, causing the plastic in the heat break to be at 70 degrees celsius.
At 70 degrees, PLA is already quite soft. Because filament is fed from the top, the hot plastic in the heat break gets compressed, and will expand sideways. It will form to all the tiny imperfections in the metal, forming a kind of mechanical bond, hereby creating resistance for the extruder, which will have to exert more force to push filament through the hot end.
If you print an object in vase mode, meaning you only print the outline, going up in one continous spiral without stopping, the plastic doesn't get the time to form to the metal. Additionally, you're constantly pushing cold filament down. This doesn't create much opportunity for heat creep.
But most prints involve retractions, where the filament is temporarily pulled back by the extruder a few millimeters, to prevent it from oozing out the hot end during non-printing travers of the hot end. What this means is that you're pulling hot plastic upwards, hereby giving the hot filament the opportunity to transfer heat to cold parts. With bowden (remote) extruders this is more prominent because those often have retraction values of several mm (3.2mm in the case of the Prusa Mini).
When the extruder pushes filament but you have this mechanical bond/semi-clog in your hot end because of heat creep, then at first no plastic comes through the nozzle. Tension will build up before the clog, in the case of the Mini mostly in the bowden tube, where the filament will compress. This will result in underextrusion, and then when the clog releases, all the build up pressure will cause overextrusion." -
Spent a good chunk of the afternoon on some printer upgrades for my Prusa Mini.
- Installed the Bondtech heat break https://www.bondtech.se/product/bondtech-heat-break-for-prusa-mini/
- Installed a bracket to strengthen the vertical axis
- Adjusted the nozzle height
Things seem to be printing smoothly again!
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Finally had the first failure of my Prusa Mini #3DPrinter. I was changing the filament and it got stuck on its way out, and then I snapped it trying to pull it out. Seven months is a pretty good run for zero maintenance though!
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the danger of having a 3D printer is seeing stuff on amazon and saying "I bet I could print that myself" and then doing it.
sometimes this does not make economical sense, such as when the alternative was to spend the $6 for the amazon one. but it is fun. -
Aaron's 3D Printer has just started streaming on their #owncast server! Check them out at:
https://printer.aaronpk.tv.Watch Aaron's 3D printer at work!
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Aaron's 3D Printer has just started streaming on their #owncast server! Check them out at:
https://printer.aaronpk.tv.Watch Aaron's 3D printer at work!
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Sneak peek of my rig I'll be streaming from on Sunday for the giveaway livestream!
Streaming and chat and overlays using the YoloBox, a wireless camera with the Hollyland Mars 300 Pro, the Rode Wireless Go for audio, and an original ATEM Mini for additional camera angles, and of course my ATEM Mini Stand!
Make sure you check out my latest livestream on YouTube for instructions on how to enter the giveaway! Only a few days left!
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I had so much fun designing this #3dprinted ATEM Mini stand, and I'm so excited to be able to offer it for sale as a real life product you can actually buy!
It's available now shipping from the US, UK, or as a downloadable STL file to print yourself! It will soon be available shipping from Australia as well!
Check the link in my bio for more info!
Designed using @shapr3dapp on my iPad, printed on the Prusa Mini+, and distributed by @dvestore, it takes a team!
#blackmagicdesign #atemmini
